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And for those who are unlikely to take up needle, thread, and satin anytime soon, lingerie designers, such as Renegade Lingerie and Jodi Albanese at Threads by Jodi, are getting in on the custom-fit bra game, with most made-to-order pieces starting at $250. It’s a fast-growing market. “If you’re 34B, yeah, or if you’re self-supporting, you can always get a good bra or a pretty little bra,” Johnson says. “The problem is 34B hasn’t been the norm since the late ’60s. It’s now 36D.”

But the right fit can work wonders, according to Calgary-based custom maker Karin Triel of Mrs. Weaver’s Finest—everything from improving posture to even curing acid reflux, in the case of one client. “There was a lot of breast pushing down on her,” Triel says. She produces her made-to-measure bras with high-end satins and silks, and bridge embellishments have freshwater pearls. Triel’s clients range in age from 15 to 60-plus, and what they have in common is that they can’t find a good-fitting bra and they “absolutely come in here feeling there’s something wrong with them.”

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